(By veiwing these pages reader agrees to accept all Liability and Responsibility of this information.)

WELL CHLORINATION INFORMATION

There Are Three Main Reasons For Well Chlorination.

ONE:
Contaminated Water in Well. (Bacteriologically Unsafe Water Samples from Well. As Microbiological: Coliform, Giardia Lamblia, Legionella.) 
TWO:
Taste and Odors and Dirtiness. (This can help with Rotten egg smell,Yellow water,Metallic taste,Brown-Red water,Turbidity=dirt,sand,clay,silt,organic matter.)
THREE: Routinely to Prevent Problems from Reasons One and Two Above. (Like "Washing The Dishes in Your Kitchen .")

!!! Be Warned!!!

Reason One above has a reason for the Contamination, steps should be taken to prevent Recontamination before a Well Chlorination. (Such as installing a vermin proof well cap as insects have been entering the well.)
Reason Two may have "other cures to correct the Problem" noted. These should be checked into before a Well Chlorination.
You may wish to return Back to Bracker's Water Well Help Pages for more help with these matters.

Reason ONE above requires the most Chlorine.
Reason TWO the second most Chlorine.
Reason THREE the least amount of Chlorine.
(The chlorine mixture needs to be within 6 to 7 PH for best results, but below a PH of 12.5 to be able to kill bacteria.)

[See Note *a.]

CHLORINE MIXING TABLE

Note that the below table is for submersible pump systems. Other types of well systems can also be disinfected in this manner but more care may need to be taken. This is aminly because of sediment that lies in the well. It may plug up the working components of some systems. (This can happen in all systems but is less likely in submersible systems.) Also some systems may not be able to have chlorine pellets [calcium hypochlorite] as it may plug up the working components of those types of systems.[see Jet Pumps and Systems.] Even submersible systems may have its intake screen or other working parts plugged or disabled from a well being cleaned in this manner, especially older systems. But the need to clean the system has proven to be worth the risk.[As ones health is more important than the money to replace the damaged components.] If this is done often enough the risk of the dirt plugging the system is minimized.

Basically how to Chlorinate a Well with a Submersible Pump
  • 1. Bypass, Shut Off or Remove all water filters, softeners, waterheaters, ice makers, dish washers, clothes washers, furnaces, humidifiers, screens on the end of taps and like appliances that could become plugged or retain dirt after flushing the well water system.[As for some appliances, that do not automatically use water, you may just elect not to use them for the sitting (retention) time.]
    [See Note *b.]
  • 2. Turn off electrical power to the well pump and any electrical appliances, lights, cords, conduits, heaters, etc, that may get wet when one uses water and chlorine around the well.
    [See Note *c.]
  • 3. Pour chlorine or chlorine mixture into well.(Do not mix chlorine types, unsafe mixers can result.) Be warned this can be unsafe and even cause death from electrical shock if done incorrectly! Use a flushed hose so as not to contaminate the well from an "unclean" hose. This hose flushing can be done by running water from the well threw the hose and allowing it to sit for a time to kill bacteria trapped in the hose. Then flushing out the hose before use in the well.) Place a clean hose inside the well connected to this well system, make sure all electrical is sealed and water tight. Turn on electrical Power with the hose already in well with its discharge point below where it can contacted water. Slowly open tap to hose in well. (Slowly, so that it doesn't fly out of well from the sudden pressure.) This water recycling should be for 15 to 20 minutes. The hose should be sprayed around inside the well casing to clean and sterilize the well if it can be done safely. If there are insects or dirt that have gotten into the well this must be done in some form to clean the well properly above the water line. Now the water tap should be shut off, the power can be turn off again, and the hose removed from the well.
    [See Note *d & *e for more information.]
  • 4. The way into the well shall now be reclosed, as this is done one must see that all electrical connections and components are safely replaced as they were. [Such as the wires are not trapped under the cover when it is bolted down. Ect...]
  • 5. Now the power can be turned back on and the water taps in the house run until one smells chlorine in the water from any tap and water line one wishes to sterilize.[Also the water will most likely appear very dirty.]
  • 6. Now it needs to sit in the system for a time. This time depends on how long before you need the water again. And on the reason above for the well chlorination, reason one above the mixing table needs the most time, reason three the least. Time should be a minimum of 8 hrs and go upto approx. 72 hours for this contact. [However when taking a vacation one may find it easy to leave it in longer, which should be ok to do. Even though the chlorine may become ineffective as to disinfecting after this 72 hour time.]
  • 7. After the time allowed for contact, flush the system until the water runs clear and there is no chlorine detected from either smell or a chlorine test kit.[A test kit for swimming pools is exceptable.]
    [also see note *f.]
  • 8. After a minimum of three days after all the chlorine has been out of the system a water sample should be taken. If there was CONTAMINATION before the CHLORINATION another sample should be taken about a month later to insure success.

    [Notes]
    *a. 1000ppm chlorine can raise Ph by 1-3 units or more.(Test water with a PH tester to make sure your Ph is not to high.)A PH level below 5 will generate chlorine gas, It can Kill!
    *b. You should also check to see if the amount of chlorine you have decided to use may damage seals or materials in any components in your water system should you have decided to use a heavy concentration and leave them in operation.
    *c. If Using Sodium Hypochlorite (common house hold bleach) this would be the time to mix it with water first in a large container. Unless you are doing step 3. Mix at approx.: Sodium Hypochlorite[1 part] to water[20 parts] , this should be safe as long as one don't get it on anything.
    *d. With the electrical off one may have a supply of mixed chlorine to pour down the well to reduce the danger of electrical shock. Also in pitless adapter systems running clear water down after would be wise to prevent the adapter from becoming stuck into its holder from the chemical reaction of it and the metals in the well.
    *e. Now the dirty water can be run out so the amount of the dirt in the water is lessened. Then the process repeated til the dirty water is fairly gone, repeating the actual chlorination until there is chlorine in the well but the water is clear enough.
    *f. If one smells the chlorine repeatedly their nose may become unsensitive to its smell. Also do not over run the water at one time until the well has run dry if this is a problem with your well and water system. If so run the water slower or for short periods of time until done.

    Back to Bracker's Water Well Help Pages