(By veiwing these pages reader agrees to accept all Liability and Responsibility of this information(opinion).)
WELL CHLORINATION INFORMATION(opinion
There Are 3 Main Reasons For Well Chlorination.
| Contaminated Water in Well. (Bacteriologically Unsafe Water Samples
from Well. As Microbiological:Coliform,Giardia Lamblia,Legionella.)
| Some Taste and Odors and Dirtiness. This can help with Rotten egg
smell,Yellow water,Metallic taste,Brown-Red water,Turbidity=dirt,sand,clay,silt,organic matter.)
|THREE:|| Routinely to Prevent Problems from Reasons One and Two Above. (Like
"Washing The Dishes in Your Kitchen
!!! Be Warned!!! Reason One
above has a reason for its "Contamination Problem", steps should be taken to prevent Recontamination before(or before finishing) a "Well Chlorination".
Also Reason Two may have "other cures to correct its Problem", these may be checked into before a "Well Chlorination".
You may wish to return Back to Bracker's Water Well Help Pages for more help with these matters.
Reason ONE above requires the most Chlorine(200 ppm or little more).
Reason TWO the second most Chlorine(200 ppm).
Reason THREE the least amount of Chlorine 100+ppm).
(Yet one needs to stay within 6 to 7 PH for it to work the best.And below a PH of 12.5, for
it to be usefull for killing bacteria.)200 ppm is recommended effective maximum. Experts say more is a waste and a hazard but since you maybe running some out to clear the water you may need to use more to keep it at such. Also it could help with contact time.
CHLORINE MIXING TABLE
Note that the below table is for submersible pump systems. Other types of well systems can also be disinfected in this manner but more care may have to be ta
ken because of sediment that lies in the bottom of the well, as it may plug up the working components of some of those systems.
Also some may not be able to have chlorine pellets,[calcium hypochlorite] as it may plug up the working components of those types of systems.[see Jet Pumps and Systems.] Even submersible systems may have its int
ake screen or other working parts plugged or disabled from a well being cleaned in this manner, especially older systems. But the need to clean the system has proven to be worth the risk.[As ones health is more important than the money to replace the dama
ged components.] If this is done often enough the risk of the dirt plugging the system is minimal.
1. Bypass, Shut Off or Remove all water filters, softeners, water heaters, ice makers, dish washers, clothes washers, furnaces, humidifiers, screens on the end of taps and like appliances that could become plugged or retain dirt after flushing the well water system.[Some of these appliances that do not automatically use water you may just elect not to use them for this time.]
2. Turn off electrical power to the well pump and any electrical appliances, lights, cords, conduits, heaters, ect, that may get wet when one uses water and chlorine around the well.
3. Pour chlorine or chlorine mixture into well.(Do not mix chlorine types, unsafe mixers
can result.) Be warned this
can be unsafe and even cause death from electrical shock if done incorrectly! Place a hose inside the well, make sure all electrical is sealed and water tight. Turn on electrical Power with hose already in well.
Slowly open tap to hose in well. Run water in well for 5 to 15 minutes. Water may,
and should be washed around inside the well casing to clean and sterilize the well if it can be done
safely.(If the water gets very dirty(dark) some maybe run out to prevent well equipment from plugging up.)
If there are insects or dirt that has gotten into well this must be done in some form to clean the well properly above the water line. Now the water tap should be shut off, the power can be turn off again and the hose removed from the well.
|[See Note *d & *e for more
4. The way
into the well shall now be reclosed, as this is done one must see that all electrical connections and components are safely replaced as they were. [Such as the wires are not trapped under the cover when it is bolted down. Ect...]
5. Now the power can be turned back on and the water taps in the house run until one smells chlorine in the water from each of the taps one wishes to sterilize.[Also the water will most likely appear dirty.]
6. Now it needs to sit in the system for a time. This time depends on how long before you need the water again. And on the reason above for the well chlorination, reason one above the mixing table needs the most time, reason three the least. Time should be a minimum of 8 hrs and go upto approx. 72 hours for this contact. [However when taking a vacation one may find it easier to leave it in longer, which should be ok to do. Even though the chlorine may become ineffective as to disinfecting after this time.]
7. After the time allowed for contact flush the system until
the water runs clear and there is no chlorine detected from ether smell or a chlorine test kit.[A test kit for swimming pools is exceptable.]
8. After a minimum of three days after all the chlorine has
been out of the system a water sample should be taken. And if there was
CONTAMINATION before the CHLORINATION another sample should be taken about a month later to insure success.
*a. 1000ppm chlorine can raise Ph by 1-3 units or more.(Test water with
a PH tester to make sure your Ph
is not to high.)A PH level below 5 will generate chlorine gas, It can Kill!
*b. You should also check to see if the
amount of chlorine you have decided to use may damage seals or materials in any components in your water system should you have decided to use a heavy concentration and leave them in operation.
*c. If Using Sodium Hypochlorite(common house hold bleach)this would be the time to mix it with water
first in a large container. Unless you are doing step 3.
Mix at approx.: Sodium Hypochlorite[1 part] to water[20 parts] , this should be safe as long as one don't get it on anything.
*d. With the electrical off one may have a supply of mixed chlorine to pour down the well to
danger of electrical shock. Also in pitless adapter systems running clear water down after would be wise
to prevent the adapter from becoming stuck into its holder
from the chemical reaction of it and the metals in the well.
*e. Now the dirty water can be run out so the amount of the dirt in the water is lessened.
Then the process repeated til the dirty water is fairly gone, repeating the actual chlorination until there is chlorine in the well
but the water is clear enough.
*f. If one smells the chlorine repeatedly their nose may become unsensitive to its smell. Also do not
over run the water at one time until the well has run dry if this is a problem with your well and water
system. If so run the water slower or for short periods of time until done.